Where Louis XIV Said ‘I Do’ – Louis XIV Wedding Saint-Jean-de-Luz & Macarons
- Natalija Ugrina
- 2 days ago
- 7 min read
It was one of those moody Basque afternoons when the sky can’t decide if it wants to drizzle or downpour. I had planned a quick stop in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, maybe an hour tops to stretch my legs, grab a coffee, and see the place where the Louis XIV wedding in Saint-Jean-de-Luz changed European history. Instead, I found myself wandering the rain-slicked cobblestone streets, completely enchanted by this seaside town’s mix of royal history, pastry legends, and Basque charm.
And yes — I’ll admit it — the macaroons definitely helped. 🍪✨
👑 The Louis XIV Wedding in Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Saint-Jean-de-Luz might seem like just another picturesque Basque fishing town at first glance, but in June 1660, it became the stage for one of Europe’s most politically significant weddings. On June 9, 1660, King Louis XIV of France — the Sun King himself — married Maria Theresa of Spain inside the town’s Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste.
This was no ordinary love story. The marriage was part of the Treaty of the Pyrenees, a historic peace agreement between France and Spain after years of conflict. To seal the deal, the young French king (just 21 years old at the time) traveled with his entire court to this small Basque port town, transforming it into a royal hub overnight.
As I stepped inside the church, the rain tapping softly on the roof, I could almost picture the scene: the wooden galleries packed with nobles in their finery, the murmur of Latin prayers, and the glittering gold of the Baroque altar catching the candlelight. The church itself is a beautiful example of Basque religious architecture, with its wooden balconies and warm, understated elegance — nothing like the grand cathedrals of Paris, but every bit as atmospheric.
And then there’s the door.
Legend has it that after Louis XIV and Maria Theresa walked out of the church as husband and wife, the main church door was sealed shut — forever. 🕯️🚪It was a symbolic gesture: no one would ever walk through the same door as the King and Queen again. To this day, that door remains closed, weathered by centuries but still standing like a quiet witness to history. I stood in front of it for a long moment, imagining the royal couple stepping out into the Basque rain, unaware that their marriage would shape the future of Europe.
🏠 Maison Louis XIV — Where the King Stayed
Just across the main square, you’ll find Maison Louis XIV, the elegant timber-framed mansion where the king stayed during the wedding festivities. Built by a wealthy Basque shipowner, this house (also known as Lohobiague Enea) hosted Louis XIV and his entourage for 40 days.
Walking inside feels like stepping into a 17th-century time capsule — polished wood staircases, creaking floors, portraits gazing down from the walls. It’s strange and wonderful to imagine the Sun King brushing raindrops off his sleeves right here, in a fishing town on the Atlantic coast, just before walking to his royal wedding. If you have time, it’s absolutely worth a visit.
🍪 Macarons Fit for a King
Just a few steps away from the church is Maison Adam, a family bakery that’s been here since — you guessed it — 1660. That same year, the Adam family presented their signature Basque macarons to the king and his court. The delicate little almond cookies were a massive hit, and word of their excellence spread quickly through Versailles and beyond.
These aren’t the colorful, cream-filled Parisian macarons you find at Ladurée today. Basque macarons are rustic, honest, and utterly addictive — made with just almonds, sugar, and egg whites, following the original 17th-century recipe. No artificial colors. No fillings. Just pure, chewy, almond perfection.
Naturally, I had to try them. Standing under the Maison Adam awning to escape a sudden burst of rain, I bit into my first warm macaron. The outside was slightly crisp, giving way to a soft, almost marzipan-like center. It was simple, elegant, and timeless — exactly the kind of treat that could charm a king.
Inside the shop, antique photos line the walls, showing generations of the Adam family proudly continuing the tradition. I loved the sense of continuity here: the same recipe that delighted Louis XIV is still being made by the same family, in the same place, over 360 years later.
💍 A Royal Marriage — and a Complicated Love Story
The marriage between Louis XIV and Maria Theresa was a political union first and foremost, designed to secure peace between France and Spain. Maria Theresa was devout and gentle, and by all accounts, she adored her husband. Louis, however, was… Louis. Known for his charisma and magnetism, the Sun King maintained a string of mistresses throughout his marriage, including Louise de La Vallière and Madame de Montespan, fathering several children outside the royal union.
Despite his infidelities, the queen remained a dignified figure at court. Their marriage produced several children, though only the Grand Dauphin survived to adulthood. Their union marked an important chapter in European diplomacy — even if it wasn’t quite the romantic fairy tale often imagined.
🌧️ Falling in Love on a Rainy Day
By the time I finished my second macaron (no regrets), the rain had softened into a mist, the kind that makes everything look a little more cinematic. Saint-Jean-de-Luz is incredibly walkable, and despite the weather, the streets were buzzing with locals carrying umbrellas, children chasing each other across slick stones, and the faint smell of the ocean in the air.
I wandered down Rue Gambetta, the main pedestrian street lined with Basque houses in red and white, tiny boutiques, and cozy cafés. The rhythm of the town is slow, unpretentious, and deeply charming. The port, with its colorful fishing boats bobbing in the water, sits just at the end of the street. I stood there for a while, watching the fog roll in from the Bay of Biscay, and I understood why so many travelers end up lingering here longer than planned.
🕰️ A Walk Through Time: Follow the Royal Footsteps
If you want to relive this unique slice of history, you can follow the path of the Louis XIV wedding in Saint-Jean-de-Luz on foot in less than an hour — though I recommend giving yourself time to linger:
Start at Maison Adam → grab macarons for the walk. (Trust me, you’ll want extras.)
Cross to the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste → visit the royal wedding site. Don’t miss the sealed royal door outside.
Stroll over to Maison Louis XIV → explore where the king stayed during the festivities.
Wander down Rue Gambetta → peek into shops selling Basque linens, espadrilles, and chocolates.
End at the harbor → imagine the royal ships arriving, diplomats bustling, and the entire town transformed for the wedding of the century.
Even in the rain — maybe especially in the rain — it’s magical.
📚 A Few Royal Tidbits to Impress Your Travel Buddy
Louis XIV and his court spent 40 days in Saint-Jean-de-Luz during the wedding celebrations.
Maria Theresa crossed the Bidassoa River to meet her future husband in a carefully staged diplomatic event.
The church’s main door has remained closed since 1660 — one of the few in Europe with this unique tradition.
Maison Louis XIV was the king’s residence during the festivities.
Maison Adam’s macarons predate the invention of the Parisian macaron by over 200 years.
🍽️ Where to Stay & Eat
If you plan to stay overnight (and honestly, you should), Saint-Jean-de-Luz has plenty of charming hotels within walking distance of everything. I love how the town manages to feel both royal and relaxed — you can explore centuries-old history by day and enjoy pintxos, Basque cake, and local cider by night.
For those wanting to add a touch of elegance to their stay, the Grand Hôtel Thalasso & Spa – 5★ is an absolute standout. Overlooking the bay, this Belle Époque gem combines old-world glamour with modern luxury. And best of all, you’re just a short stroll from the church where the Louis XIV wedding in Saint-Jean-de-Luz took place. 🌊✨
If you prefer a more boutique atmosphere, the Hôtel Madison Saint-Jean-de-Luz – 4★ is a chic, contemporary option right in the heart of town. It’s just steps from Rue Gambetta and Maison Adam — perfect for exploring on foot and sneaking out for midnight macarons. 🍪
For a romantic Basque townhouse vibe, consider the Hôtel La Marisa – 3★. With vintage interiors and a cozy, intimate atmosphere, it’s ideal for travelers who love places with character. Plus, you’re just a few minutes’ walk from both the harbor and the historic center.
And for those who want ocean views at a mid-range price, the Hôtel de la Plage – 4★ is a fantastic choice. Located directly on the bay and just steps from the church and Maison Louis XIV, it’s perfect for travelers who want history and scenery at their doorstep.
(💡 Quick note: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my travels!)
✨ Final Thoughts
Saint-Jean-de-Luz caught me completely off guard. I arrived on a gray, rainy afternoon expecting a quick stop, and instead I found myself walking through royal history, eating the same macarons that once delighted a king, and falling a little bit in love with this Basque gem.
The sealed church door, the golden altar, Maison Louis XIV, and that first bite of almondy perfection — it all came together like a well-written love story.
So if you ever find yourself on the French Basque coast, don’t rush through Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Take your time, grab a macaron (or five), and follow in the footsteps of Louis XIV. Some places don’t just tell history — they let you taste it. 🍪👑